Sabah says - in Conversation with Shelina Permalloo : Multi-tasking and successfully tackling challenges

Shelina Permalloo is a name known by many in Mauritius, mainly for taking Mauritian cuisine to the global stage. Shelina, born to Mauritian parents in the UK, won the ever-popular British TV cooking competition, Masterchef, back in 2012, and in the time that has passed since then, has gone on to become a restaurant owner, a published author, a TV guest chef, a wife and a mother.

Last week, Shelina took some time out of a busy work trip here in Mauritius to meet me, straight after her book signing at Bagatelle Mall. We instantly got along, as the beautiful Brit is the kind of person that exudes warmth and charisma and makes everyone in her presence feel comfortable. Our conversation was fun, lighthearted and extremely insightful.

How did your book signing go at BookCourt and how did that come about?
It was nice. They ran out of copies for my book, so that’s always a good thing! I know the guys who run BookCourt as a family business, so every time I come back to Mauritius, I try to do something with them. But as an author, it’s really important to be around your readers as well, so I just thought it would be nice to get involved.

Every time you come back to Mauritius, how do you feel about returning to your roots?
It’s funny. Every time I come back here, it doesn’t feel like I’ve been away for very long - but this time it has been a while, it’s been two and a half years. However, it feels like it’s home away from home, because I live and breathe Mauritian food in the restaurant and I’m always talking about the island, it’s always nice to come back and reconfirm what I’m doing. Even though I’m British, I’ve always felt like Mauritius is my spiritual home. Growing up in Britain, I grew up always thinking that I was Mauritian.

I’m going to ask you about Masterchef. What were you doing before the competition?
My background is in project management, in talent and diversity. I always really wanted to make a difference. I went through a kind of quarter-life crisis when I was 28/29, pushing towards 30, and I just felt like it was the right time for me to go into food.

So basically, I saved a load of money, applied online for Masterchef and that was pretty much it! I got a phone call from Masterchef asking me to come in to do a trial and things like that, and from that point onwards, everything changed.

Every single dish that you cook has to be the best dish you have ever cooked in your life, so you basically use up all your ammo in one go and then if you get through that stage, the next day or the following week, you have to do it all over again.

You said you worked in project management. What made you turn to food and cooking at that particular point in your life?
I think there’s sometimes a frustration when you work in businesses, like you feel like you’re not really making much of a difference. I always thought with food, no matter who you are or what your background is, if you put food in front of people, everyone will come to a table and talk.

So, I thought that was a really good way of making people connect from different walks of life. That’s what I always thought about food, being one thing that gels people together. I thought at least if I go into food, I’ll be able to make a difference in that field.

And then you applied for Masterchef…
Yes, a bit of a dramatic change of career! I actually did apply for a job at a supermarket as a volunteer in their food development section. It would have been two or three days a week, and then the rest of the time I was going to get a temporary job just to make some money. But around the same time I got the job, Masterchef called me! It was a bit bonkers when all of that happened!

Can you sum up what the Masterchef journey was like for you?
The journey was really, really hard. It’s very intense. Every single dish that you cook has to be the best dish you have ever cooked in your life, so you basically use up all your ammo in one go and then if you get through that stage, the next day or the following week, you have to do it all over again.

Was there a point in the competition when you thought: ‘Okay, I can win this’?
There was a time when I went to a 3* Michelin restaurant in Bruges and I learnt so much from the head chef there. When we got back, I ended up cooking a soft crab dish and it was a soft shell crab, deep-fried with green mango and tamarind and apple chutney. I remember cooking it and John Torode saying: “You’ve come home” and he had tears in his eyes.

At the time, I didn’t understand what he meant, but looking back, what I understand now is that he really thought that I understood my food, my culture and my heritage. Before that, I was trying to make my food more European and I was trying to look at the European way of cooking when actually, we don’t fit into that type of cooking - so that’s why he said that.

Do what your heart is telling you to do and believe in that dream. If you work hard at something that you love, then something good will come from it.

So in contrast to that, were there any times in the competition where you experienced self-doubt? And if so, how did you overcome that?
I think because I was thrown into these awful, hard, and challenging situations that people were watching on TV, I didn’t get the chance to even think about self-doubt. I think throwing yourself in at the deep end is the way that you learn.

Failing is a really good thing. If you fail, you have learnt something so much more than if you just pass. All of the stuff I’ve learnt is through failing. In this industry however, being a woman and being brown skinned, I experience self-doubt every single day. There’s always a challenge.

How did the Mauritian community take to you being in Masterchef?
Basically, a load of people who hadn’t spoken to my mum in years suddenly started calling and they would call my mum and tell her what I should be cooking for the next round! I’d get texts from cousins saying: “My mum is telling me to inform you that next time you should cook this or that.” It was really funny actually! But many Mauritians were very supportive they still do; it’s really lovely.

How did your life differ from before to after Masterchef?
Completely. I haven’t changed, but my life has changed. My life has changed so much because I get to work in an industry that I love. I feel really lucky to be honest. I feel so lucky that I’m able to showcase Mauritian food to a British audience; something I never thought was possible.

You now have your own Mauritian restaurant back in the UK. Can you tell us more about Lakaz Maman?
The restaurant, Lakaz Maman, is in dedication to my mum; she was the one that taught me how to cook. It’s all about home traditions, so the actual food at the restaurant is traditional Mauritian food with a twist. Our biggest seller is ‘Bol Renversé’ (magic bowl). It has taken a lot of hard work and in that time period of two years, I’ve got married and had a baby as well, so it’s been two years of hard core work. I think it’s the hardest I’ve ever worked.

My life has changed so much because I get to work in an industry that I love. I feel really lucky to be honest.

So, are you actually there cooking all the food yourself?
For the first six months, it was just me and my mum. Mum would be in the kitchen shouting at me and I’d be like “hey mum, I’m supposed to be the head chef”. *laughs* My mum has been amazing, she’s been my lifeline, and my husband as well. But now, I have a head chef and a sous chef, so the kitchen runs itself. I work four days a week and the other three days, I’m a full-time mummy. It’s just finding the balance, really.

That takes us nicely to your wonderful daughter, who will be one year old very soon. How has motherhood impacted your life?
By far, it’s the best thing that has ever happened to me. Put aside Masterchef, the restaurant, everything, she’s changed the way I think about everything, to be honest. Motherhood is the ultimate thing, I think.

How do you manage to balance everything that you do, the way you do, especially now being a mother?
I have a lot of support. My husband and my mum are very, very supportive. Without them, I wouldn’t be able to do it. What I’ve realised now is that I shouldn’t be too hard on myself. I try and do too much sometimes and then I get really exhausted.

The priority for me is my daughter’s growth and wellbeing and her childhood. Now that I’ve prioritised the days that I work (four days a week full time), the rest of the time I get to focus completely on her. I still work when she naps and sleeps but when she’s awake, she is my main focus.

Do you ever get much time to yourself?
I’ll be honest; I don’t really need much time off. For me, time off is a meal at home with my husband and spending some time with my mum. I don’t need much else.

What brings you the most joy in life?
My family.

If you had to eat one thing, that was the same thing every single day for a year, what would it be and why?
Probably something with mango. Fresh mango. I could eat fresh mango every single day, without question!

What’s your favourite meal to cook for guests when they come over?
I’m a fish and seafood woman. So it’s normally fish and seafood when people come over; like a whole roasted sea bream with lots of different sides. Usually Mauritian themed sides like a coconut chutney. One thing I do is get the fish, slash it and stuff the chutney in the inside, wrap it in banana leaf and put it in the oven; that’s a really nice one!

Can you tell me about a standout experience in your career as a professional chef?
Opening the restaurant with my husband and my mum. The day that we opened and cut the ribbon was like the ultimate day for me. It was like a dream come true.

Where do you plan on taking the restaurant in the future?
We would like to open more. We’re actively looking for more sites at the moment, but we’re just trying to figure out which location is best.

Can you tell me about a challenging time in your life and how you overcame it?
Opening the restaurant actually. So, the actual build of the restaurant was really challenging, as the building was in a really bad state. We were constantly trying to open the restaurant but there would always be another hurdle in the way. However, the answer is patience and always having an end goal in sight.

Telling myself that it’s all going to be okay and remaining calm. I think for me, I’ve gotten used to knowing that things don’t always go as planned, so if you know that, you’re better at dealing with it when things go wrong. I panic a lot less now.

Could you let our readers know who is or are the person/s behind your inspiration?
My mum. She’s my biggest inspiration. I never understood how she managed to raise three kids on her own. My dad passed away when we were young. She’s just an incredible, inspiring woman and she still has all the time in the world for us.

Before we end, if you could share one message with the entire world, what would it be?
Do what your heart is telling you to do and believe in that dream. If you work hard at something that you love, then something good will come from it.

Finally, what would you like the future to hold for you?
To keep on doing what I’m doing and have my family involved in all of it. If I can carry on doing what I love, I’ll be happy.

Until next time.
Light & Love,
Sabah x